It’s the perfect item for a weekend bathroom upgrade. Also pick up a new drain and overflow assembly (Figure B), clear silicone kitchen/bath caulk and the other materials shown in the photos. In many cases the tub and far wall will be one piece and the extra piece will be a corner section. Test-fit the cardboard template on the wall over the faucet stems and showerhead stub-out to make sure the fit is perfect, then use the template to transfer marks for cutting the holes onto the front of the surround panel. The first two categories are the most popular. Cutting holes for the faucet and showerhead requires careful measurement of the front wall, then transferring those measurements to the front surround panel. But don’t add nailers at the drain end of the tub until the new tub is in. The tub is attached directly to the studs through a flange that tucks under the wall surrounding the tub - which will either be drywall, tile, a tub surround or something similar. We are no longer supporting IE (Internet Explorer) as we strive to provide site experiences for browsers that support new web standards and security practices. Drill the end panel holes. This is where setting your bathtub perfectly level pays off! You can make a transition from galvanized water supply pipe to copper or plastic (CPVC). Some installation pros like to run a bead of silicone caulk along the edge of the tub or shower base just before pressing each panel into place on the wall. For a clean, chip-free hole, use a brad point bit. tile backer. wide and are designed to fit against the wall studs (Figure A). Make sure to protect the finish of your new tub with paper or cardboard while you’re working. iStockphoto.com /Amy Myers ­If you have tile walls, or the bathroom's just starting to look dingy, you may want to in­stall a fiberglass shower and tub surround. 4 corner shelves. backer board to keep the surface flush with the drywall (Photo 12). No. The Spruce uses cookies to provide you with a great user experience. Remove the cut out drywall after pulling away the last pane. Clean and prime painted walls before tiling. Introducing "One Thing": A New Video Series. In addition, we chose to tile around all the edges to cover the joint and avoid a difficult taping job. All these fittings are available at hardware stores and home centers in many sizes. Siraphol Siricharattakul / EyeEm / Getty Images. Our tub/shower unit cost $300 (“Acclaim” by Sterling), and other materials (new shower valve, tile, etc.) Then measure the exact centers of the tub spout and valve and lay them out on the end panel. When finished, smooth any rough edges with sandpaper. But it is also possible you will need to trim panels to fit, so it's critical that you test-fit the surround panels before you begin the installation. For a shower enclosure, extend the tile and the backerboard at least 6 inches above the showerhead. Some 5-panel kits are designed so that the corner panels are installed last, after the flat panels are in place. Ceramic tile was applied over the walls with tile adhesive. Using glued surround panels is a very easy and inexpensive way to remodel a shower or bathtub alcove with minimal effort. For thicker shims, use boards or strips of plywood. Use a drill and hole saws to cut holes for the faucet valves and shower head on the front surround panel. Remove existing wall mounted fixtures. Stand the fiberglass surround on top of the tub. 1 surround: $482.70: $1,150.07: Bathtub Surround Installation Labor, Basic Basic labor to install bathtub surround with favorable site conditions. Then order your tub. But beware of one piece bathtub shower surrounds and one-piece tub/shower stalls. Now’s the time to plan this joint, while you can still remove the tub. When tiling around a tub, mark the first layout line at the vertical edge of the tile next to the tub. Then make your cuts about 1 in. Anchor these with screws driven through the drywall. Use a utility knife with a sharp blade and score several times until the blade slices completely through. Fiberglass walls have no structural or stable support, not only will the fiberglass shower or fiberglass tub walls flex when pushed against, but they also can crack and break over time from continual pushing or pulling. Then, attach the drain to the new tub, and connect the overflow drain. Before you begin the bathtub installation, check the tub rim for level, both front to back and side to side (Photo 7). Remove the panels, then use a jigsaw with a fine-tooth panel blade to cut down the panels to the size. Before beginning, spread a thick canvas dropcloth over the bathroom floor and any nearby fixtures. Get daily tips and tricks for making your best home. Fasten the tub to the studs. Use a brass screw for the toggle bolt rather than steel to avoid rust. Most are 5 ft. long and 30 in. Thicker, sturdier products are designed to be affixed directly to wall studs, and these are a good choice during major remodeling projects where walls are being demolished down to the studs, or in projects where the bathroom layout is being changed and reframed. The installation process is straightforward, but there are a few things you can do to make the process go as smoothly as possible. Solutions vary with the type of floor you have and the gap size. Wear a dust mask if the drywall is moldy or you’re destroying old plaster. Remove any moldy insulation and add new 2×4 nailers as needed to support drywall edges and the new tile backer that you’ll add later (Photo 6). Shim spaces less than 1/2 in. If you replace the shower valve and have copper supply lines, you’ll need soldering skills. Set the surround panels, locking the corners. This also works for tile over drywall or backer board. Fastening towel bars, shelves or hooks to a fiberglass or plastic shower surround can be tricky. 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